How Comme des Garçons Makes the Ugly Beautiful
How Comme des Garçons Makes the Ugly Beautiful
Blog Article
Fashion has long been associated with beauty, elegance, and harmony. It is often expected to present the ideal, the desirable, and the aesthetically pleasing. However, Comme des Garçons, under the visionary leadership of Rei Kawakubo, has challenged this conventional Comme Des Garcons understanding of beauty. Through radical deconstruction, unconventional silhouettes, and a deep philosophical approach, the brand has turned the concept of "ugly" into something mesmerizing and thought-provoking. It has redefined fashion as an art form that transcends traditional notions of attractiveness and instead explores the raw, the deformed, and the avant-garde.
The Philosophy of Imperfection
At the heart of Comme des Garçons' aesthetic lies an appreciation for imperfection. Rei Kawakubo does not chase classical beauty; instead, she embraces asymmetry, irregularity, and unfinished forms. She has famously spoken about her desire to create something that has never been seen before, which often results in designs that defy fashion norms. Her collections are filled with garments that look torn, distorted, or seemingly unfinished, but within these unconventional creations lies a deliberate artistry that redefines the essence of beauty.
This philosophy is deeply rooted in the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection and impermanence. Comme des Garçons' garments often look as if they are in a state of flux, evolving rather than being complete. The brand’s designs force the viewer to question their preconceived ideas of what is attractive and to appreciate the unexpected.
Deconstruction as a Design Language
One of the key methods through which Comme des Garçons makes the ugly beautiful is through deconstruction. Kawakubo often disassembles traditional clothing forms and reconstructs them in ways that challenge the norms of tailoring and proportion. Jackets have misplaced sleeves, dresses have exaggerated lumps, and coats seem to be falling apart. By taking apart and reconfiguring familiar garments, she creates an aesthetic that is at once jarring and mesmerizing.
This approach was perhaps most famously seen in the brand’s 1997 collection, often referred to as the "Lumps and Bumps" collection. The garments featured padded protrusions that distorted the body’s natural silhouette, creating grotesque yet captivating forms. While traditional fashion seeks to enhance the natural curves of the body, Comme des Garçons deliberately disrupts them, encouraging a new way of seeing and understanding shape.
The Power of Black and the Rejection of Ornamentation
In 1981, when Comme des Garçons debuted in Paris, the collection was met with shock. The garments, almost entirely black, were asymmetrical, oversized, and seemingly tattered. In an era when luxury fashion was associated with glamour, opulence, and structured beauty, this stark, almost dystopian aesthetic was unsettling. Critics labeled it as "hobo chic" and "anti-fashion," yet it resonated deeply with those who saw its raw power.
The use of black became a signature of the brand, symbolizing both rebellion and intellectualism. Unlike conventional haute couture that relied on embellishments, Comme des Garçons stripped away excess decoration and focused on form, texture, and concept. The absence of conventional ornamentation shifted attention to the structure of the garment itself, forcing the audience to engage with fashion in a more cerebral manner.
The Conceptual Runway Shows
Comme des Garçons' runway shows are not just fashion presentations; they are performance art. Each collection tells a story, often one that challenges beauty standards and explores themes of alienation, identity, and emotion. Models are often styled in ways that deliberately defy conventional attractiveness, wearing exaggerated wigs, white-painted faces, or masks that obscure their features.
The Spring/Summer 2012 collection, for example, featured white, amorphous dresses that engulfed the models' bodies, making them appear ghost-like. Rather than showcasing clothes meant for daily wear, these presentations feel like abstract sculptures, forcing the audience to reconsider their expectations of fashion. The runway becomes a stage where new forms of beauty are introduced and debated.
Influence on the Fashion Industry
Despite its radical nature, Comme des Garçons has had a profound influence on the fashion industry. Many designers, from Martin Margiela to Yohji Yamamoto, have been inspired by Kawakubo’s fearless approach to design. Even mainstream brands have adopted elements of deconstruction, asymmetry, and oversized silhouettes that were once considered avant-garde.
The label's collaborations, including its partnership with Nike, Converse, and even fast-fashion retailers like H&M, have introduced its unique vision to a wider audience. While the core Comme des Garçons collections remain highly conceptual, the brand’s diffusion lines and collaborations have brought its philosophy to consumers who may not traditionally engage with Comme Des Garcons Hoodie avant-garde fashion.
Redefining Beauty for the Future
In a world obsessed with perfection, Comme des Garçons serves as a reminder that beauty is subjective and constantly evolving. The brand challenges us to embrace the unconventional, to see art in the imperfect, and to appreciate fashion not just as something to wear but as something to think about. Kawakubo’s work proves that the ugly can indeed be beautiful—if we are willing to open our minds to it. Report this page